Broken Key Stuck in Your Lock: Why It Happens and What to Do Next

Broken Key Stuck in Your Lock: Why It Happens and What to Do Next

You put your key in the lock, turn it, and snap — half the key is in your hand and the other half is stuck inside the lock. It is one of those moments where you just stand there staring at it, wondering how this is your life right now.

Do not worry. I deal with broken key extractions across Coventry every week, and in most cases I can get the broken piece out and have you back inside within 20-30 minutes. But first, let me explain why this happens so you can avoid it in the future — and what you should absolutely not try before calling me.

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Why Keys Snap in Locks

Keys are not invincible. They are made of brass or nickel silver, and over time they weaken. Here are the main reasons keys break:

Cold weather contraction. This is the number one cause in Coventry, especially between November and March. Metal contracts in the cold. Your lock mechanism stiffens. You push the key in and turn harder than usual, and the weakened key gives way. I see a spike in broken key calls every time we get a cold snap.

Cheap key blanks. If you have had keys cut at a market stall or a cheap key cutting booth, the blanks may be softer metal than the original. They wear faster and are more prone to snapping. A key cut from a cheap blank might last a year before it becomes weak enough to break.

A worn or stiff lock. If your lock has not been maintained — no lubrication, internal parts corroded or gummed up with dirt — it takes more force to turn the key. More force means more stress on the key, and eventually it gives way. This is especially common on older mortice locks and euro cylinders that have never been serviced.

Too much weight on the keyring. This one surprises people, but it is genuine. A heavy keyring pulling on the key while it is in the lock creates lateral stress on the blade. Over months and years, this weakens the key at the point where the blade meets the bow (the handle part). When it finally snaps, it breaks right at that stress point.

A worn key with visible cracks. Take a look at your keys right now. Can you see any hairline cracks, especially near the base of the blade? Is the key visibly thinner than it used to be? Those are warning signs. If a key looks worn, get a new one cut from the original — not from the worn copy.

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What NOT to Do

I cannot stress this enough: most of the things people try before calling me make the situation significantly worse.

Do not use pliers to grab a flush or recessed key piece. If the broken key is sticking out enough to grab, fine-nose pliers might work (more on that below). But if the key is flush with the lock face or has gone further inside, pliers will push it deeper. I have lost count of the number of times I have arrived to find someone has jammed the broken piece further into the cylinder with pliers, turning a 10-minute extraction into a cylinder replacement.

Do not use superglue. I see this advice online and it makes me wince. The idea is to glue a stick or wire to the broken key piece and pull it out. What actually happens is the glue runs into the lock mechanism, bonds with the pins and springs inside, and destroys the cylinder entirely. A £49 extraction becomes a £89 cylinder replacement. Please do not do this.

Do not try to pick the lock yourself with random tools. Hairpins, paperclips, and screwdrivers are not lock picks. You are more likely to damage the lock mechanism, push the key piece further in, or scratch the inside of the cylinder so badly that even a new key will not work smoothly.

Do not force a second key in. If you have a spare key, do not try to push it into the lock alongside or behind the broken piece. There is no room, and you will jam both pieces in there.

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What You CAN Try (Safely)

If the broken key is **protruding from the lock face** — meaning you can see the end of the broken piece sticking out — you can try the following:

If it comes out, brilliant. Try your spare key in the lock to make sure everything still works smoothly. If the lock feels rough or stiff, it may need replacing — the break may have damaged the pins inside.

If the key does not come out easily, stop. Do not force it. Call me on **07735 336175**.

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How I Extract Broken Keys

When I arrive, I assess the situation first. Where is the broken piece? How deep is it? What type of lock is it? This determines the approach.

Specialist extractor tools. I carry a set of broken key extractors — thin, hooked metal blades designed specifically for this job. They slide into the keyway alongside the broken piece, hook onto the key's serrations (the jagged edge), and allow me to pull the piece out. It is a delicate process but usually takes under 10 minutes.

Pick and hook method. For keys that are deeper inside the cylinder, I use a combination of a hook pick and an extractor. The hook manipulates the pins to release pressure on the broken key, while the extractor pulls it free.

Cylinder removal. In some cases — particularly if someone has already pushed the key piece deep inside, or if the lock mechanism is damaged — I need to remove the cylinder entirely to extract the key from the back. If the cylinder is damaged, I will replace it. I carry common euro cylinder sizes in my van, so I can fit a new one on the spot.

I always try the non-destructive approach first. In the vast majority of cases, I can extract the broken key without any damage to the lock.

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What It Costs

All prices include my call-out. No hidden charges. I give you the price on the phone before I come out. See the full [pricing page](/prices) for more details.

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How to Prevent Keys Breaking

Get spare keys cut from the original. Copies of copies degrade. Each generation loses a tiny bit of accuracy and the key blank may be lower quality. Always cut from the original if you can.

Use graphite lubricant in your locks. A quick spray of graphite powder into the keyway every few months keeps the mechanism smooth and reduces the force needed to turn the key. Do not use WD-40 as a regular lubricant — it attracts dust and gums up over time. Graphite is dry and stays clean.

Replace visibly worn keys. If a key is thinning, cracked, or bent, replace it before it breaks at an inconvenient moment. It costs a few pounds at a key cutter versus £49+ for an emergency extraction.

Lighten your keyring. Your front door key does not need to share a ring with 15 other keys, a bottle opener, and a torch. The less weight hanging off the key while it is in the lock, the less stress on the blade.

Maintain your locks. A stiff lock puts more strain on keys. If you notice your lock getting harder to turn, get it looked at before a key snaps inside it. Sometimes a lock just needs cleaning and lubricating. Other times the mechanism is worn and needs replacing. Either way, it is cheaper to deal with proactively than as an emergency.

For more information on lock maintenance for uPVC doors, which are the most common door type in Coventry, see my guide on [uPVC door locks](/services/lock-change).

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When to Call Me

Call **07735 336175** if:

I cover all areas across Coventry and Warwickshire — from the city centre to [Tile Hill](/areas/tile-hill), [Canley](/areas/canley), [Binley](/areas/binley), and beyond. Typical arrival time is **15-30 minutes**.

Visit the [emergency lockout service page](/services/emergency-lockout) for more details on how emergency call-outs work.